Beachy Head
The main attraction of Eastbourne is the seaside, but Eastbourne’s seaside is different than most - along with a historic pleasure pier and beach, there are also the soaring white chalk cliffs of Beachy Head, the tallest in Britain, and its iconic red-and-white striped lighthouse. That’s where I started my day.
From the Foot of Beachy Head, the uphill walk is somewhat challenging, but well marked. The path winds its way along the chalk cliffs to the top, where I found spectacular views of the town below, the lighthouse, and the cliffs themselves. I spent most of my morning exploring along the coastal path and viewpoints before heading to Beachy Head Centre to catch a bus back into town.
Top tip: Upon arrival at Eastbourne station I took bus route 3 from stop R1, located right at the station, which got me to the Foot of Beachy Head in around 15 minutes. There are lots of alternatives, including sightseeing buses (you’ll find these at the entrance to Eastbourne Pier), but it would also be entirely feasible to walk from town.
Lunch, Promenade and Pier
My bus dropped me close to Wish Tower, located along the promenade, which is one of the Martello Towers built along the south coast in the early 1800’s to defend against an invasion by Napoleon. The imposing defensive structure was closed on the day of my visit, but there are lovely gardens surrounding and the promenade runs immediately adjacent.
I then headed to Bistrot Pierre (https://www.bistrotpierre.co.uk/menus/?location=eastbourne), just a few steps from the Wish Tower and enjoying sea views from some of the tables inside as well as an outdoor seating area. As the name implies, it’s an informal, French style bistro serving small plates and starters (£4-£10), plates (£13-£19), steaks (£15-£29). I had the warm butternut squash and french cheese tart which was both beautifully prepared and delicious.
After lunch, I walked along the promenade planted with palms and other tropical plants, taking in views of the sea, seeing families search for interesting things washed up by the waves, and watching a few surfers and paddle boarders.
The Victorian pier at Eastbourne will, for many, be a reminder of holidays past. There are several arcades, shops where you can buy a memento of your visit, and several places to get take away food and drinks to eat on the many picnic tables.
Top Tip: Other than Bistrot Pierre, I didn’t see any sit down restaurants on the promenade but some hotels across the coastal road opposite do serve meals. If you’re short on time, hold off until you get to the pier where you’ll find a busy fish and chips shop right at the entrance and more food options further out. If you do get take away, be warned: the seagulls here are well practised in the art of snatching dinner straight from the hands of unsuspecting tourists!
Shops and culture
If the weather isn’t great on the day of your visit, Eastbourne offers plenty of quirky shops to explore as well as the excellent Towner Art Gallery (https://townereastbourne.org.uk/).
I opted for a browse around some of the independent shops rather than a visit to the high street shopping found immediately in front of the train station. In Cornfield Terrace I came across Barley Sugar (https://barley-sugar.co.uk/) which is an antique, luxury food store and fine wine shop all rolled into one. I was shown around by the owner who introduced me to locally produced wines and sparkling wines, told me a bit about some of the mid-century pottery (they have a fantastic collection!), and even gave me some dinner pointers.
The Towner Art Gallery, my next stop, was a bit of a surprise for me - before I arrived, it’d never crossed my mind that it’d be the world class gallery that it is. The main exhibition when I visited, Emma Stibbon’s Melting Ice | Rising Tides, was a thought provoking exploration - through drawings, photographs and film - of the impacts of climate change and rising sea levels. I also noted that the gallery is very much a community space, with art and yoga (yes, yoga) classes, visits by schools, and a busy cafe all bringing people together. The Towner Art Gallery is part of a campus of cultural institutions that also includes the beautiful modernist architecture of the Towner Cinema, the Congress Theatre, and the historic Winter Gardens. I would have loved to have stuck around for an evening performance and may very well do so next time.
Top Tip: The centre of Eastbourne runs roughly between the train station and the promenade, a walk of around 7-10 minutes. Being such a walkable city makes it a great option for those travelling by train.
Dinner
After the Towner Art Gallery, you’ll probably want some dinner before taking one last look at the sea. You’re in luck - between the gallery and the sea is Carlisle Road, lined with restaurants and cafes catering to just about any cuisine. I had my dinner at Little Italy where, based on the waiters recommendation, I had a hand tossed pizza that proved delicious. There are other options including a Thai restaurant, fish and chip shop, and Favoloso which is a locally cherished cafe serving coffee and ice cream.
After dinner I did exactly what I expect most visitors do and headed up to the promenade for one last view before returning to the station to catch my train.
Eastbourne has a lot to offer day trippers and it’s easy to get to with Southern Railway. I found Eastbourne to be a great alternative to Brighton, with a similar beach but lacking the hustle and bustle. Easy access to nature, in the form of a walk up to the top of Beachy Head, also sets Eastbourne apart. There’s also more dining options, lots of cultural opportunities, and shopping than you might expect there to be. Eastbourne was, for me, a genuinely pleasant surprise and I can’t wait to return another day.
Getting to Eastbourne with Southern
Southern Railway running direct services from London Victoria as well as connecting services from Wivelsfield, East Croydon, and Clapham Junction. Journey times as advertised but expect 1.5-2 hours depending on your route if you are coming from London.
About the Author
Robin Hamman is a writer, photographer, university lecturer and consultant who lives in St. Albans. He once wrote a university paper about Victorian seaside resorts and continues to find them interesting to explore. Robin travelled courtesy of Southern Railway and personally paid all other costs including meals.