Exploring Lewes in a day
Lewes, a charming town nestled in the heart of East Sussex, is a great option if you’re looking for a great day out. Known for its rich history, vibrant cultural scene, independent shops, and easy access to the hikes and walks of the picturesque South Downs, Lewes offers a perfect blend of attractions for visitors.
I reached Lewes in under an hour by train from East Croydon, with much of the journey passing through idyllic countryside, so I can easily visit again. That’s a good thing as, I have to admit, I was so smitten with Lewes that before the end of my day trip I found myself thinking about how lovely it would be to actually live there!
Castle and museum
Lewes is a fairly compact town, with the train station right near the centre.
Upon arrival, I walked up the hill to Lewes Castle and Barbican House Museum, both of which are managed by English Heritage (entrance fees apply for non-members).The museum contains interesting archaeological exhibits and insights into local history.
Lewes Castle comprises a soaring, tower like structure as well as pleasing gardens and a city gate. The castle offers views over the town as well as beyond to the chalk cliffs and hills of the South Downs.
Lewes: A very walkable town
I’d intended to follow my stop at the castle with a visit to Anne of Cleves House and another to Southover Grange Gardens, both of which are firmly on the tourist trail, but instead found myself wandering around some of the mediaeval back-streets beyond the castle gate.
After returning to the Castle, I took a right on the High Street (away from the town) to take a look at the 15th Century Bookshop which, sadly, only opens at the weekend, and the lovely pottery shop across the street. Baltica Pottery which sells handmade craftware from Poland, was the first of many independent, arts and design oriented shops I would go on to discover on just about every turn in Lewes.
Walking back into town, I passed Bull House, former home of Thomas Paine, the radical thinker and author of “The Rights of Man” who is often credited as having a strong influence upon the American Independence movement. Opening times and dates vary depending upon season so it’s best to check the website before you go.
Walking down the hill into town, Lewes High Street is lined with a huge variety of independent cafes and shops, all of which appear to be thriving. If you happen to visit on a Friday, take a left at the fork of the road with Market Street and visit the lovely farmers market. On the day of my visit there were delicious fresh pastries as well as locally grown produce, including at least four varieties of heritage plums on offer.
After the market, I kept walking down the hill and into the centre of town, roughly the area in and around Cliffe High Street. Here I found even more shops, pubs and restaurants catering to all tastes and budgets. And it is here that I discovered two aspects of Lewes that helped make it a really special day trip destination for me: the town supports at least five bookstores and an even greater number of specialist shops selling antiques and collectables, as well as an expansive community gallery. Here were my favourites:
In addition to several large antique centres, the centre of Lewes also boasts its own camping store, angling shop, organic food outlet and a wide variety of other shops to be discovered. After a couple hours of browsing - and feeling I had merely scratched the surface of what Lewes has to offer - I headed to the nearby
Snowdrop Inn for lunch. Situated about a 7-10 minute walk from the end of Cliffe High Street, the Snowdrop is down a quiet residential street with a white chalk cliff towering behind it. It’s a cute and friendly pub offering a great selection of beers and beautifully prepared food. I opted for a fig salad, made with locally produced cheese, and a big bowl of hand cut chips.
Easy access to nature
Walking back into town, along the picturesque banks of the River Ouse, which runs right through the centre of Lewes, led me to my final destination, Railway Land. This large nature reserve, managed by Lewes District Council and the Railway Land Wildlife Trust, which is supported by Southern Railway, offers forested walks and access to wildlife starting moments from the centre of town. There’s also a purpose-built education centre that hosts community groups and schools. As the nature preserve is made from a long disused railway yard, it’s also just a couple minutes walk from Lewes station, where I caught my train home.
I was expecting Lewes to be a cute town with a castle, but it’s a WHOLE lot more than that. Independent shops, cafes, restaurants and pubs are all thriving here. There’s a fantastic weekly produce market, vibrant arts community, five or more book stores, more antique and collectables shops than I could count, and nature just moments from the hustle and bustle of the town centre. Lewes is a town that, on the basis of just one day trip, I’d be more than happy to live in. Thankfully, it’s close enough that I can - and certainly will - visit again very soon.
Getting to Lewes by train
Fast trains run between London Victoria and Lewes with journey times of approximately one hour. Robin, who travelled courtesy of Southern Railway, joined the train at East Croydon. Lewes Station is right in the centre of town, with all stops mentioned in this article being within a 10-15 minute walk of the station. Robin paid for his own castle entrance ticket, food and other costs during his visit.
About the author
Robin Hamman is a university lecturer, consultant, photographer and writer who lives in St. Albans. In a previous role as a BBC Journalist he counted 57 towns and cities of England as his “patch” but has visited few places he’s taken a shine to as much as he has Lewes.
