Portsmouth: City of Culture

Portsmouth celebrates 100 years of city status in 2026 and is bidding to become UK City of Culture 2029. It makes sense: maritime heritage, beachy energy, a thriving creative scene, and fiercely independent food spots make it an ideal day trip – effortlessly accessible by regular Southern services.

I’ve lived here for nine years, near Fratton railway station. One of my favourite things to do is hop on a Southern train from Fratton to Portsmouth Harbour and wander back, popping into my favourite spots as I go.

Portsmouth Harbour is the end of the line – there’s something very satisfying about stepping off the train and into the sea air. The Wightlink catamaran goes to the Isle of Wight from here, ferries pass heading to France, HMS Warrior sits proudly ahead, and the Spinnaker Tower rises above it all.

Southern Railway runs regular direct services from London Victoria, East Croydon, Gatwick Airport, Horsham and Chichester. Direct trains from London Victoria take around 2 hours – with Advance fares from just £8 – it’s one of the easiest coastal city breaks without a car. The quick link to London was actually one of the reasons I chose to move here.

As you arrive on Portsea Island, look out for Langstone Harbour, Fratton Park, and wide coastal skies before rolling into the station.

Let’s find Portsmouth’s hidden gems

Southern trains pull right into the heart of the harbour – you’re steps from the water the moment you leave the platform. Exit Portsmouth Harbour Station and you’ll see the famed delights of Portsmouth Historic Dockyard and Gunwharf Quays ahead, but we’re looking for where the locals hang out – the hidden gems of Portsmouth. We’re going to walk to Portsmouth and Southsea Station, just a mile or a 20-minute walk direct, but via the longer scenic route along the coast.

Something fishy?

You could either brave the gauntlet of designer shops at Gunwharf Quays on your way to the coast, or slip past the street art along Ordnance Row. Either route leads you to our first stop on the Camber Docks: Fish, a brilliant little seafood deli loved by locals.

Inside, you’ll find juicy prawn sandwiches, takeaway pots of fish salad, cockles and mussels piled high – even whole fresh lobsters if you’re feeling ambitious (though perhaps not ideal to carry for five miles). Take your pick and head outside to sit overlooking the boats, with The Bridge Tavern opposite.

Secrets of the sea walls

Follow the coastline and you’ll reach the iconic Square Tower and Round Tower, marking the start of the Hot Walls art studios.

Walk along the ramparts for sweeping Solent views. Explore the short stone tunnels – perfect for testing the echoes (my son enjoys a full-volume sound check every time). This is Portsmouth at its most historic: the very spot where Lord Nelson met in secret before Trafalgar and where the city once braced itself against attack.

If you need a coffee or a cinnamon roll, find The Canteen tucked in the walls – one of my favourite coffee shops in Portsmouth. Or, grab a flapjack and flat white to go and take it down to the shingle beach a few steps away to wave at the ferries as they pass.

Classic seaside fun

Walk the Millennium Promenade – part of the King Charles III England Coast Path – towards Clarence Pier. Not a hidden gem, but great fun all the same. My son loves pirate golf on a sunny day, or the Putt Hutt in the rain. Keep any kids away from the arcades though, you’ll be in there for hours on those 2p machines!

Pause at the hovercraft viewing platform. This is the world's only year-round, commercial passenger hovercraft service. It takes just ten minutes to get to the Isle of Wight.

Here for the indie shops?

Detour north over the rainbow zebra crossing for Castle Road – one of Portsmouth’s most loved. Pop into Fatclay pottery to buy some locally made pottery, Delaney’s for brunch, or Pie and Vinyl for some pie (and vinyl) before looping back to Southsea Common.

We have many festivals on the common throughout the year – including the almighty Victorious Festival on August Bank Holiday weekend. If there’s not a festival on a summer’s Sunday, then there’ll be a boot sale.

Cross Southsea Common towards Southsea Castle, built by Henry VIII in 1544 to defend the Solent from invasion. Nowadays it hosts weddings, has a small museum, and provides one of the best vantage points for sweeping views. The hot chocolate in their café is medicine on a cold day.

Oh I do like to be beside the seaside

Southsea Promenade has been transformed to improve the sea defences and the path for pedestrians. Enjoy the beach on one side and local art, benches, and a great little park and ramp for the kids on the other. Pass the pier and Southsea Beach Café to Canoe Lake, where you can hire swan pedalos or try summer crabbing.

Visit Southsea Model Village

There’s a play park round Canoe Lake, but the real hidden gem is tucked just beyond: Southsea Model Village. This charming 1/12th-scale replica of Southsea and Portsmouth even has a Thomas the Tank Engine display. Nostalgic for adults, but magical for kids.

Fratton vs Portsmouth & Southsea

Time to head inland. Both Fratton and Portsmouth & Southsea are served by regular Southern services, so you can choose your distance.

Either way you’ll head north via the Portsmouth Natural History Museum. It’s a small but charming spot, home to a butterfly house, Emily the dinosaur, and thoughtfully curated exhibits that celebrate the area’s wildlife and natural heritage.

Wander along Albert Road – Southsea’s independent heart. If you’re heading to Fratton Station, stop into Hunter Gatherer to stock up on wholesome vegan train snacks, then cut straight up Francis Avenue. By now you’ll have clocked up around five miles since stepping off at Portsmouth Harbour.

Or, you could add an extra half a mile and walk to Portsmouth & Southsea Station (my recommendation) via the rest of Albert Road, and the eclectic Elm Grove. Top local’s picks include the plant-based cakes at Offbeet Southsea, a browse of the novels at Pigeon Books, and cinnamon rolls at Bread Addiction, fresh salads at Southsea Deli, or a Belgian beer at Huis. The best place for train snacks though, is Hideout Coffee Company.

One last meal in Portsmouth

For a final send-off, head to Natty’s Jerk, just opposite Portsmouth & Southsea Station. The jerk chicken is smoky, spicy perfection, and the laid-back vibe with its own beach makes it hard to leave. Natty is a legend around Portsmouth.

From the restaurant, you can actually see Platform 1 – a gentle reminder your Southern train is ready whenever you are. Then it’s simply a case of crossing the road, hopping on board, and watching the island slip away behind you.

That’s the beauty of Portsmouth. No car, no rigid plan. Just hop off at one train station, follow the coastline, and enjoy the city one coffee shop, Tudor castle and sea view at a time. Compact, characterful and perfectly walkable for a day out by rail.

About the author

Victoria Philpott has been a travel and festival blogger at VickyFlipFlopTravels since 2012. She’s travelled to over 70 countries, exploring the jungles of Papua New Guinea, sailing in the Philippines and cycling the length of Vietnam. Nowadays you’ll find her exploring Europe with her young son, and making the most of the beautiful UK.