I arrived at Hever Castle with my family on a cold November morning, the sort of day when you can see your breath the moment you step outside. I could feel myself getting into the Christmas spirit, even before we reached the entrance. Music drifted across the grounds, lights twinkled in the distance, and I had that rush of excitement you only get at the start of a festive day out.
Getting to Hever Castle by train
Getting there by train takes a tiny bit of planning, especially in winter, but when you plan ahead you can often save money. In the summer, walking the mile from Hever railway station is part of the fun. The countryside is beautiful, the route is straightforward, and it sets the scene as soon as you step off the train.
In winter, the path gets muddy, the light fades early, and it isn’t the most hospitable way to begin. Getting the train to Edenbridge Town works much better, and it takes less than an hour from London Victoria or from London Bridge.
Edenbridge Town railway station is three miles from the castle and you can easily get a taxi for that final stretch. My top tip is, once you've booked your tickets for the Hever Castle Christmas event, book your train tickets too so that you can take advantage of advance fares, and pre-book your taxi in advance too so that you know everything is sorted.
We did exactly that and spent the short ride watching fields slip past the windows while warming our hands on takeaway coffee.
Inside Hever Castle at Christmas
Once we arrived, the castle tour was our first stop. Inside, Christmas takes over in the best way. Trees sparkle in every room, nutcrackers stand at attention, and the whole place leans into the Land of Oz theme with little touches everywhere. You’ll spot Dorothy decorations, silver slippers (because they’re not ruby slippers in the original book, something I learned during our visit), and signs that gently nod to the story in a way that's fun and interesting for visitors of all ages.
I particularly enjoyed slowing down and reading about the castle’s history. Most people think of Anne Boleyn and Henry VIII when they visit Hever, and that story is still front and centre, but I loved learning more about the Astor family too. Yes, the same Astor family that the Waldorf Astoria hotel in New York City is named after.
William Waldorf Astor bought and restored the castle in 1903, and his family’s influence is all over the rooms and gardens. It adds an unexpected extra chapter to Hever’s story, and it makes the castle feel more lived-in than you might expect from a place its age. Fun fact, William Waldorf Astor’s first cousin, John Jacob Astor IV, was the richest man on earth at the time but perished on the Titanic when it famously sank in 1912.
The Land of Oz trail
Back to the present day, it was time for the Land of Oz trail. This was easily the highlight for the kids. The trail tells the story of the original Wizard of Oz with colourful scenes, atmospheric music, and a bright Yellow Brick Road that winds through the gardens.
Dorothy’s house appears crooked, the Scarecrow pops up near a cornfield, the Tin Man stands proudly beside a log pile, and the Lion waits behind a fallen tree. Even the Wicked Witch makes an appearance, although not in a way that will frighten little ones. Actors dressed as the characters wander around the grounds too, chatting to families and posing for photos, which adds a brilliant interactive touch.
By this point we were feeling hungry, so we headed for something to eat. We ordered hot jacket potatoes, which really hit the spot on a cold afternoon. They were tasty, filling and exactly what you want at this time of year. We followed them with hot chocolates, and I don’t think any of us managed to drink ours without ending up with a foam moustache. Pure bliss, especially as mine had a splash of Baileys in it.
With full bellies and feeling pleasantly warmed, we went to tackle Hever’s famous Yew Maze. I’d somehow forgotten how easy it is to get lost, even as an adult. The kids raced ahead, shouting every time they reached a dead end and laughing with pure joy. It didn’t take long to find the centre, but it was fun trying to outsmart the hedges.
Fun for all the family
As the afternoon drew on, the festive atmosphere had amplified. The Ferris wheel turned slowly against the winter sky with vintage organ music filling the air, families queued for the carousel, and the whole place had that relaxed, slightly chaotic energy that only happens when everyone is excited at once.
We soaked it all in, took a spin on the rides, and then wandered over to the gift shop. It’s a great place to pick up Christmas presents, and we managed to cross a couple off our list, which felt like a win.
Before we left, the characters from the Land of Oz were still out and about. The Tin Man high-fived children while the Lion gave friendly roars. The Wicked Witch posed dramatically in every photo, and it added that extra layer of magic which I know the kids will never forget.
As the sky faded to a soft grey, the lights around the castle switched on. The whole place looked even more festive, and it made the walk back to the taxi feel like the day was ending on a high. On the ride to Edenbridge Town, the kids were already talking about what they wanted to do when we come back, and honestly, I was too.
Christmas in the Land of Oz at Hever Castle is one of those days out that feels easy, joyful and full of small moments that stay with you. We all left tired, happy and a bit rosy-cheeked, and I’m already looking forward to the next visit.
